Things to Do in London

London hits you first with diesel and roasted chestnuts outside St Paul's, the sharp clack of heels on wet pavement while black cabs thunder past. The river keeps its pewter sheen under grey skies most months, yet when sunlight breaks, glass office blocks liquefy into gold and the Thames flashes like a blade. At Borough Market lunchtime, sharp cheddar from Somerset caves meets yeasty beer from Bermondsey breweries while traders holler Cockney rhymes centuries old. There's the London of red buses and palace gates, but also where Bengali aunties line up for samosas on Brick Lane at 2am and City boys spill onto Liverpool Street clutching pints of flat ale. The city never quite settles on pride or embarrassment about its contradictions, which is exactly what pulls you back.

London's food scene left boiled beef behind years ago. Queue for ramen at Kanada-Ya on St Giles High Street, taste proper pie and mash at Manze's on Tower Bridge Road where parsley liquor runs thick and green. Chinatown stretches from Gerrard Street to Leicester Square - hit Cafe TPT on Wardour Street for salt and pepper squid at 2am when clubs empty. Borough Market dishes out wild game burgers and raclette scraped over potatoes while Southwark Cathedral bells chime overhead. Prices run from budget kebab shops on Edgware Road to Mayfair splurges where dinner costs what some people earn in a week.

May through September gives the best sunshine odds - though London weather loves making fools of us all, pack a jacket regardless. July and August bring crowds and hotel rates jump, but the parks shine and pub gardens spill onto pavements. Winter delivers Christmas lights on Oxford Street and mulled wine at Southbank market, shorter queues for attractions but you'll need that umbrella daily. Spring wins my vote - daffodils in St James's Park and beer gardens just starting to wake up.